Dear Advisor Partners,

 

I love sending out these dispatches, showcasing our adventures from the road. Each time we travel, we explore new routes and experiences. Dare I say, we have one goal in mind….break the status quo. Those of you who know us well, know that we don’t play to the galleries. We beat to our own drum. This time is no different as we aimed to redefine hiking trails no, not in Peru, but in Guatemala.

A few years back, my family and I were in Guatemala and wanted to explore the Mayan history beyond Tikal. Now, I’m a huge Star Wars fan so being at Tikal was important (watch the end of Empire Strikes Back to see what I mean), however, it can be quite busy after sunrise. Enter a visit to El Mirador by helicopter, a visit I won’t soon forget. I also remember the five-day hike and thinking that could be a really amazing new trail, similar to the one in Peru. Well, that moment arrived as our team member, Tatiana Johnston, just completed a successful visit to Guatemala, including a hike up the active volcanoes around Antigua. The highlight, however was her successful completion of the long hike into and out of El Mirador.

Stay tuned for more information on off-the-beaten-track Guatemala in this two-part dispatch.

 

Enjoy this week’s video.

Dear Advisor Partners,

 

The greatest show on Earth has many meanings and references, both in pop culture and ancient history. However when it comes to nature, there is really only one reference, the great wildebeest migration. Thunderous herds making the journey through the plains, dodging threats from predators all along the way. This is truly a show I never tire of watching, even in syndication!

 

My first safari while growing up in Kenya was at the age of 4 with my parents. The memories of that experience still live with me today, and countless safaris later, the show never gets old. Imagine my joy when I received videos of the latest migration from a few guides from Bushtops Camps, that I proudly call friends. It’s like watching the pilot episode of a show you know is going to be epic!

We decided to put the videos together to celebrate, the greatest show on Earth.

The Coffee Blend

It was 1974. A local resident and friend of the Mehta family in Khartoum made an introduction to a young lady named Usha Mehta, living in Wad Madani, Sudan. The young lady traveling to Nairobi, and this friend thought we should meet. In those days, the tradition was to have an arranged marriage. And so, after being introduced, Usha Mehta and I went for coffee at the Panafric Hotel in Nairobi, which surprisingly still exists to this day.

We must have talked for almost 2 hours about everything we had in common and our lives. Afterward, when Usha went home, I was asked to make a decision regarding whether or not I wanted to proceed with the relationship. And so I did. 20 days later, we were arranged to be married on Oct 20, 1974.

Shortly after our wedding, 15 days later, we went on a safari in Tanzania, visiting the Northern Circuits from Manyara to Serengeti. Back then, this was all done by road, meaning some excitement was bound to happen along the way. I remember it was a dry day; the weather was perfect for the drive, and, as an added bonus, along the way, we met with a group that was traveling with Big Five, as some of our first travelers since the company was not even a year old at that point. One of the guests was from Syria and met up with us, conversing with Usha Mehta; now, my wife began speaking to him in Arabic since she was fluent as a Sudanese resident living in Kenya, making it a very nice encounter.

That following year,  Usha visited India with her father; as for me, having never been before, I made my very first visit to the United States. From day one, we found ourselves exploring different parts of the world; in some way, Usha was part of my path, and now here we are…50 years later. My Family, Big Five, and my Parents Dream in full circle.

 

Dear Advisor Partner,

 

Big Five Tours & Expeditions, in partnership with Art Experiences Travel, jointly announce the launch of the ME Ecuador Trail. This is a new and authentic program on the mainland.

Ecuador, allowing travel advisors and travelers alike to support local artisans and community tourism as a long-lasting part of the tourism equation.

 

In September 2020, Santiago, a friend in Quito, introduced me to Sebastian, the architect behind Art Hotels and Art Experiences in Ecuador. While visiting his hotel in Otavalo, we discussed the local artisans, chefs, and musicians who were forgotten during the pandemic. Like other countries and as an established tourism destination in South America, Ecuador has a major challenge – ensuring tourism dispersal beyond its main tourism draw, the Galapagos Islands. In fact, continental Ecuador competes for the same customer who is traveling to the country specifically for one experience. However, what is often left out of tourism conversations are local artisans and micro-entrepreneurs who play a small role in the tourism economy of Ecuador. The pandemic laid bare the struggle of these local artisans, who all suffered a major impact in their micro-businesses, many lost everything, and some reverted back to substance abuse or worse.

 

This led to the co-founding of ME Ecuador, a collaborative that prioritizes pathways to visibility for indigenous communities, artisans, and artists among travelers, travel advisors, and travel providers. The organization, which was co-founded by three tourism industry leaders (including Big Five and Art Experiences Travel), was created with the goal of giving these micro-entrepreneurs a chance to become responsible members of the tourism industry in Ecuador by helping them write their own business plans and holding them accountable through a code of ethics agreement. Ecuador is multi-diverse, boasting 14 different indigenous tribes. In addition, it celebrates many artisans and artists that have mixed indigenous art crafts with Spanish influences, making it their own version of mestizo art. The ME Ecuador Trail is a sustainable tourism initiative designed to invite Ecuadorian micro-entrepreneurs to the tourism table, allowing them to thrive and become a voice and teacher for others in their communities to join in on the effort of sharing their crafts/skills with the world.

 

This partnership has started to show tangible results that is changing the lives of local micro-entrepreneurs as they move away from life-damaging circumstances, in some cases, towards having respected seats at the tourism table. The journey representing this collaboration begins here with our newest President’s Pick,

The ME Ecuador Trail.

Take a peek at this week’s video.

A Sense of Accomplishment in Medellin and Cartagena

Dear Advisor Partners,

 

As we wrap up our dispatch from Colombia, I present part III, the final report from a magical 41st visit to Colombia. Leaving La Macarena, with my shoulder back intact, the reflection of what we just accomplished started to sink in. This wasn’t just a 12-year vision coming to fruition, this was an accomplishment that allowed me to finally relax, the anxiety leaving and routine returning. As we landed in Medellin before sunset, I was relieved to return to one of my favorite cities in Colombia, the city that invented the phrase transformation through tourism.

 

The familiar faces of Julio and Juan Carlos greeted us as we arrived, their beards with a few more strands of grey, yet their smiles brighter than ever. This visit to Medellin was more important than any other because of our visit to higher parts of Comuna 13 with friend and guide, Jason. The activity with Jason focused on the African heritage in Comuna 13, beyond the crowded and touristy parts of the neighborhood. This was actually forged a few years back during the Tourism Cares Summit in Medellin, where I met Jason’s bro, Freddy. We formed a great connection showcasing Comuna 13, as, after all, it wasn’t that far back that this area was a conflict zone. The highlight of this area however isn’t the story of violence, rather the story of coping through music. Jason and his family used drum beats and different styles of hip-hop music, merged with Reggaeton, to create a unique sound that has a sonic influence even on those that are not musically inclined. Jason has come a long way, born with tanks and violence in his community to now collaborating with leading hip-hop artists and other top musical acts. I joked with Jason to remember me when he walks the red carpet one day!

 

From Medellin, it was on to Cartagena to close out our adventure. You know, I believe everything happens for a reason, so when the rain washed out our boating day, something magical ensued, lunch prepared by our private chef in the home of the Botero family, which we often use for our travelers. The highlight was the best sunset ever, with a 360° view from the rooftop of the home. After the stress of pulling off the perfect visit to Macarena, Cartagena is where everything always falls into place, from our guide Vicky’s unforgettable energy to the culinary delights of the city. The highlight, thanks to my friend Carolina from OhLaLa, was meeting noted author Gabo’s nephew during a private lunch with access to the last 8 copies of his family memoir in the world, gifted exclusively to our group. Top that off with chocolate from the famous Abraham that denoted our entire journey from where the cacao was sourced to the wrapping.

 

Visit 41 is in the books, and I haven’t even shared our new plans of working with the late Anthony Bourdain’s guide in Cartagena. It involves ceviche and hammocks suspended from the top of trees.. stay tuned for that!

 

The Twelve year Dream

 

Dear Advisor Partners,

I often tell my children to dream big and to walk through brick walls when necessary in order to achieve those dreams. I tell them that no dream is too big or unattainable; it’s only a matter of willpower, skill, and determination. I may have been talking to my children. However, deep down, I think I was talking to myself.

Twelve years ago, as I was traveling through Colombia, I saw pictures of Caño Cristales at every airport and was told how inaccessible this area was. This was all before the treaty was signed, all before Colombia really took off the meteoric way that it has. This was when most of Colombia, beyond the known cities, was still a sleeping giant. Yet I found a way to visit Caño Cristales before any tourism system existed. Let me tell you that my visit 12 years ago was an epic disaster. However, it was the best thing that ever happened to me, fueling my fire to return one day and to mark Caño Cristales as the latest example of transformation through tourism in Colombia.

Fast forward 12 years, and the desire to return to Caño Cristales has not dissipated. In those 12 years and with every visit to Colombia, I would drive our Colombia team crazy asking about a return to this river of five colors. I think some serious headaches ensued after each visit, and I don’t even want to know how many hours of sleep were lost. Enter 2023, and we made history. It finally happened! Big Five took the first group of advisors in all of North America to this part of Caño Cristales for the day. It all started with a 1 hour flight deep into the heart of Colombia, followed by a 4X4 excursion and a trek. Since this entire region sits atop a tar pit, you could see oil oozing from the ground in certain places we trekked. How could the water be this clear, that close to the tar pits? Nature works in some mysterious ways when left alone.  The tar pits and the luminescent algae weren’t the only focal points here, it was our local guides.

Now, mind you, Big Five always sends a national guide, like my buddy Leon, for these adventures as he is a modern-day Indiana Jones. However, the local guides told the same stories I heard 12 years ago, stories that made me shiver, stories that made my jaw drop due to the content and context. Stories I can’t even write here as the words don’t do them justice! Yet here we are, and here they are, transformed through tourism from a past leading to a painful ending to a future without limits.

It took 12 years to fulfill this dream, a strong reminder that every dream needs course correction, grit, and perseverance. It shouldn’t need extra motivation. That should be a prerequisite. Well, our team never wavered, we kept trying to find ways to make this work, and we finally did, right between Bogota and Medellin, with the precision of a Swiss watch. This dream literally had planes, boats, off-road vehicles (and one dislocated shoulder, for you know who).  The dedication of our Colombia team made this happen, from the activities down to the branded rain ponchos, slippers, and toiletries!

Enjoy Part II of our dispatch.

Dear Advisor Partners,

 

It’s that time again, my annual visit to Colombia, visit number 41. Our first dispatch comes from Bogota as we begin what will be a historic adventure. Arrival in Bogota was seamless, and it was great seeing my family here again. One aspect that I am really proud of is the amount of history and first-time innovations the Big Five team has in place in Colombia.

As you know, Big Five prides itself on sustainable initiatives and a commitment to leaving this world in a better place than we found it. Well, that now starts with an arrival into Bogota where we are proudly the first company to use an electric car for airport transfers in Bogota. Even though the charging grid is still under construction in Colombia, we have the schedules organized very well to allow transfers to always be done on a full charge.

 

Carrying on into Bogota, one cannot visit Bogota without visits to the local markets or the historic district, and trying local fruits, some of which I grew up eating in Africa. At one point, I was so immersed in being back in Colombia that I mistook an onion for a grape.

 

Stay tuned for Part II, where we really start making history in Colombia. Until then, enjoy the video!

 

A Sneak Peek.

Dear Advisor Partners,

 

When it comes to Egypt, one of the most frequent questions we receive is when will the Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) open? Well, everything is a good guess at this stage, and anyone providing a hard opening date is also sharing an estimate. The commercial or common area of the GEM has been open, and Big Five includes that visit in every adventure to Egypt with a fee for special access inside one of the halls while work at the GEM is completed. We are getting inside information all the time on the status of the GEM and have been really good at sharing updates on the opening only when we have credible information. However, one thing was still missing. How does a visit to the GEM make you feel? Well, we got our answer this week when Big Five Egypt team member, Nour Abouseif, visited the museum on a weekend when locals were invited to visit the GEM on a guided tour of the open areas. We made a video of Nour’s visit and shared her thoughts below. Before we jump in, there are a few things to remember. The Grand Egyptian Museum is the largest museum in the world, built on 117 acres, and will include a movie theater and a children’s museum with 3D capability when fully complete. There will be over 60,000 artifacts in this museum at any given point. Noting those facts helps me realize why the GEM is taking so long to complete.

 

Our journey with Nour starts with the approach to the GEM. It is here that you fully realize how large the structure is. Now, I’ve seen this structure when visiting the pyramids however, seeing it from Nour’s perspective was really special. Nour was transmitting her notes to me live as she walked through the museum, and you could feel her excitement through her words.

 

1:58 pm – The excitement builds. This is the road leading up. I’m about to enter.

2:01 pm – The tour is about to begin. This is the largest museum in the world. There will be a few hotels here, and eventually, you will even be able to walk to the pyramids.

2:07 pm – Nobody, I mean NOBODY knows when the museum will officially open in full. It feels close though.

2:17 pm – The Hanging Obelisk is the only one of its kind in the world, though it is one of the smallest in Egypt, weighing 60 tons. It belonged to Ramses II, known as, the greatest and the saddest king. Part of the obelisk is cut into two pieces. Ramses wrote his name on the base so that no one ever removed it. The black base at the bottom highlights that.

2:18 pm – the museum is built on two axis points horizontally. Based on the great Khufu and Menkaura, built on an amazing design where you feel the humidity as soon as you enter. There is an open ceiling that allows sunlight in.

2:20 pm – The feeling as soon as you enter is one of awe. Ramses welcomes you as soon as you enter. Best. Welcome. Ever.

2:34 pm – This is the first piece to have arrived here at the GEM.

7:35 pm – Ramses II is not only the greatest king but not a single city is free of his name. He left his mark everywhere. He is the saddest king at the same time because he buried 50 of his children when he was alive.

7:38 pm – Nefertari says hi! When you come here, check her hand. She supports Ramses. We have an Egyptian proverb that says   “انا بسندك” which translates to I’ve got your back.

7:41 pm – I’m thinking of becoming an Egyptologist after this tour! What an amazing world of knowledge and art.

7:44 pm – There are foreigners here visiting the common areas.

7:46 pm – Do you see the signs of the duck? It means son or daughter. Why? Here in Egypt whenever a baby arrives, we refer to him as “بطوط” which means duck. This just shows you how amazing our culture is. It transcends time, even when we don’t notice. Many of our common practices date back to 7,000 years ago, if not more.

7:48 pm – I found Maat! She is the founder of mathematics and she is the God of justice. I found it on the back of the statue of Ramses II. She is holding the key of life. Ramses loved Maat as she was full of life. She is depicted as the beginning of life. You even see the womb.

2:52 pm – The 4 halls are here but are closed. When they open, however, hall number one is for the statues of the forgotten kings, and hall number two is for large events.

2:54 pm – So much thought went into this design. On October 22, there is a small open part of the window that will let sunlight in through just the right angle that it will hit the column and shine a light on Ramses II.

2:59 pm – The reason for the inclined floor you see is because this is how Egypt is built, on an uphill. Even the church is an uphill. The tombs are also an uphill, because the holiest part is the closest to the sky. More stairs! They symbolize the stairs of life. As you walk up, you reduce the number of days in your life and become closer to the sky.

3:02 pm – The King Tut area! The excitement if wanting to see it is… agggghhhhh!!!! Tons and tons of gold were found in his tomb. The King Tut mask is still at the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities

3:04 pm – There is still some construction. I can’t see a lot of it but I hear it.

3:10 pm – Did you know all statues, the left feet are aways at the front.

3:15 pm – I found Horus! Cats were glorified because they symbolize motherhood. This shows that females in ancient Egypt. It’s just great seeing all this history!

3:20 pm – one more thing which was amazing to learn. What is referred to as khartoush is known as shen and what is written inside is referred to as renn, this was only for the kings. We have another Egyptian proverb which states, “لو شن و رن” علي in francoarabe “lee shana w rana” which means has a great position. So again another thing that showcases how culture can never be changed, it just evolves.

3:43 pm – All this and we didn’t even see 1/100 of what will be available! I’m on my way out. Wow!

 

We can’t wait for the Grand Egyptian Museum to fully open. We know it will be historic and our best guess is that this may happen in the next few months. In the meantime enjoy the video of Nour’s visit. While nobody knows the actual opening date of the GEM, you can see the impact of even visiting the commercial area is in some ways even more powerful than the actual opening. What impact will a visit have on you?

 

The Indestructible Beetle

It was 1971, just before Big Five was officially launched, though the idea of adventure was already instilled in me. This story takes place when I was 23 years old which is ironic since I just turned 75 a few days ago. A group of friends in Kenya and I decided to take a trip to Lake Turkana, one of the most remote locations in Kenya. There were 14 of us split between three classic Land Rovers and one old-fashioned water-cooled VW Beetle. The Rovers were all heavy trucks with iron cladding fit with everything from a 4×4 transfer case to a snorkel and off road gear. The Beetle, on the other hand, was an original design, water cooled engine in the back and nothing special added to it, except for its driver, Sukhi Patel, a dear friend. Sukhi could drive anything on wheels in a manner nobody else could. Three of us drove to Kitale, 3.5 hours from Nairobi. Here we were joined by 11 others (two in our party were friends of friends and were newly married).

After several nights in Kitale, we carried on to Lake Turkana, the second leg, a 10-hour ride on dirt and muddy roads. Sukhi let me drive the Beetle on dirt roads, however, in the mud, he was back in charge. Along the way, one of the Rovers had a flat tire and got stuck; another had a fan belt snap also got stuck. Fortunately, we had a mechanic in the group, as in those days, no roadside assistance existed. The final Rover had a mechanical issue also requiring repair work. The Beetle, with its underpowered engine, 4-speed manual, no 4wd, and no ground clearance, carried on without a hiccup. The local Meru and Turkana tribes came out and helped us along the way, letting us enter their communities and offering the hospitality Kenyans are famous for.

 

Once at Lake Turkana we set up our beds on the platform sleeping under the stars. There was no hotel here, only one tent for the newlyweds and a platform with sleeping pads for the rest of us. We had to create a perimeter around our platform using Gamatox powder (dry sulfur), a great home remedy to keep the poisonous critters away. We slept soundly, knowing nothing venomous was crossing our powdered barrier until we heard a yell from the tent. The groom had been bitten by a scorpion!

Two hours from the closest civilization, with no doctor in sight, a witch doctor from the local community graciously helped us remove the poison from the bite. The groom was screaming so loudly in pain, you could likely hear him in Cairo. How do we take the edge off the pain, we wonder? A few minutes later we had our solution, which in hindsight may not have been a medically approved procedure, a bottle of whiskey. Once the poison and the edge were both removed, the patient relaxed, and we took a sigh of relief. By 9:00 AM the next morning, he was somewhat back to normal. The sun was scorching, so we jumped into the lake to cool off, even pushing our bite victim in with us. At this point, he was safer in the water than he was left unsupervised on land.

 

Back home we went after our adventure at Turkana, and once again the Beetle reached home without incident. I started Big Five two years later.

A True Timeline;

Dear Advisor Partners,

 

My family is entrenched in Africa, from Kenya; on my wife’s side, Uganda. What some of you may not know is that my mother and her family are from Sudan, a place I visited as a child and remember vividly. In fact, my memories of Sudan serve as a benchmark for what I see as authentic experiences, and it is a goal of mine to someday see tourism part of the equation in a future Sudan. That is why this is likely the most important blog I have shared with you in my 20+ years at Big Five and in the 50 years of Big Five’s existence.

 

All of you by now have seen the news of the unrest in Sudan, however you may not know that we had a front row seat at the unrest, as my mom’s brother and my uncle, Kaushik Mehta, lived in a suburb of Khartoum. My parents would speak to him daily, often with limited connection due to the power and water outages even with solar panels on his roof. When the unrest started, my aunt, uncle, and their friends made a plan to painfully leave their birthplace, leaving everything they owned to become refugees as they fled to India. The last time I heard about members of our family fleeing was when my father in law and his parents left Uganda when Idi Amin was in power. This time, it was unfolding in real time. My mother in her wisdom, asked my uncle to chronicle his journey when he finally left Sudan. Today at 70 years old, he is safely in India, in quarantine, making his way to our home in Pune, forced to start his life over again. Below is a timeline of their exodus written by my uncle’s nephew, Niral Mehta, who traveled with the group and was instrumental in making sure the whole party was evacuated. The below was written while sitting in quarantine in India.

 

April 13, 2023: News of the unrest between the two armies started to spread but was not taken seriously.

 

April 14, 2023: The Sudanese army warned citizens that the country’s biggest paramilitary was mobilizing troops in cities across the country.

  • 6:00 AM: Fear setting in among citizens. People starting to take shelter.
  • 7:20 PM: Urgent message sent out by the Sudanese army that the situation has escalated and a complete closure of roads to Omdurman (where our family lived)

 

April 15, 2023: A possible peaceful resolution that never happened

  • 12:59 AM: Al Jazeera reports that both parties were meeting to ease tensions, or so we thought.
  • 11:30 AM: Strong sounds of gunfire heard from our home. My uncle writes “May God protect us.” Fear turns to panic.
  • 11:47 AM: Videos start to circulate that shops and offices are closing. Those residing in Khartoum could no longer go back home as the bridge was closed, so they sheltered in homes in Omdurman residential areas with relatives. Some people had not left home for 2 weeks.
  • 12:25 PM: The unrest reached Khartoum airport and all flights stopped. Flying out from the main airport was no longer possible. Power and water were now cut in Khartoum. People started purchasing electricity which you could store in your prepaid meters in Sudan. Mobile phone Sim cards were refilled before it was no longer available. Some began transferring payments to relatives outside the affected before the generators powering the network headquarters ran out of fuel.
  • 1:27 PM: The Indian Embassy in Khartoum begins communicating with all registered Indians via WhatsApp group as there was no other way to communicate. All banks closed and accounts frozen. Internet and network signals become intermittent.
  • 2:29 PM: Heavy gunfire, including aircraft guns and anti-aircraft artillery, can be heard.

 

April 16, 2023: A community member is lost.

  • Local citizen Albert Dal has been killed. He was hit by gunfire through his home window on the 11th floor. Nobody could get to his home due to heavy gunfire.
  • Bombing and gunfire has increased to the point where nobody can leave their homes except out of necessity for 10 minutes to get vegetables and bread which was available in limited supply.
  • 9:38 AM: Indian Embassy sends a google form out to complete so they can get an accurate count of how many to evacuate.
  • 12:32 PM: Indian Embassy starts a second chat group as the first one is filled to capacity.
  • 11:24 PM: Khartoum airport closed due to runway damage. At the same time a shelter in place order was sent out by the Indian embassy.

 

April 19, 2023: Mandatory shelter in place

  • Land Cruiser traveling from Khartoum to Wad Medani was shelled with occupants killed.

 

April 21, 2023: Evacuation plan

  • Idea for a 13-hour drive to Port Sudan though concerns were raised about traveling amid gunfire.
  • Fuel shortages also a concern to complete 13 hour drive without being stranded as 2 routes to Port Sudan pass through conflict zones.
  • Official count from Indian Embassy, 3,000 Indians stranded in Sudan.

 

April 22, 2023: We’re all alone

  • 8:52 AM: The Sudanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs advised that nationals from US, UK France, Germany, South Korea, and China were advised of evacuation plan. Panic set in as India was not mentioned in the statement.
  • Port Sudan was designated the evacuation route however, nobody had yet completed the 13 hour drive during present conditions, so there are too many unknowns.

 

April 23, 2023: Signs of hope

  • 1:13 AM: Video received from first group who safely completed the 13 hour drive to Port Sudan.
  • Bomb explosion sounds heard in Khartoum. Things getting dire.
  • Evacuation plan decision made. It was time to leave for Port Sudan.
  • Transport had to be pooled due to cost and limited access to funds.

 

April 25, 2023: Difficult decisions

  • Ambulance needed to accompany the bus for bedridden member of evacuation party.
  • Bus capacity had 49 seats. Google form created for sign up for those interested in leaving. Two hours later there were 170 names applying for 49 seats. Eventually four buses and three ambulances sourced. Now paying for that transport was the issue otherwise will they still show up?
  • Numerous messages received from relatives demanding we leave immediately. We have to have a plan first.
  • In the end 5 buses and 1200 bottles of water arranged and confirmed.

 

April 26, 2023: We will be refugees

  • 9:00 AM: Requests sent to Ministry of Foreign affairs to arrange transportation from Jeddah should those at Port Sudan be allowed to cross over to Saudi Arabia.
  • All health and dietary complications needed to be accounted for.
  • Meetings took place at Niraj’s home with those attending risking gunfire to attend.
  • Responsibilities all assigned to handle bus bookings, money collections, ambulances, and fuel.
  • Sadly while those who came to meetings were at our home, their fuel was stolen from their homes by looters.

 

April 27, 2023: We are leaving and there is no going back

  • Finally, we are leaving. Buses arranged by Sanjay Kothari, a fellow community member.
  • Firing and bombing continues black smoke everywhere.
  • Everyone is carrying enough food for 3 days in case we get stranded.
  • 6:30 AM: Five buses and three ambulances depart Omdurman Indian School – 807 KM 12+ hours.
  • Five hours in, necessary stop made at Al Haya. No water, no fuel, and no network connection on the route. All buses fitted with freezers to preserve food since there was nothing available to buy en route.
  • One ambulance arrived at Al Haya late due to tire blowout on the road.
  • 90 KM from Al Haya, true Sudanese hospitality appears with the Sinkat indigenous community.  They offered us tea, coffee, and sandwiches, anything needed for a safe journey. Even though they may not get food tomorrow due to the unrest, they were ready to give us what they had. This is the real Sudan.
  • 5:50 PM finally approached at Port Sudan. Refugee camp set up as no space was left anywhere else.
  • Price gouging evidenced all over Port Sudan from those renting out flats for USD 10,000 per month. Food and drinks prices are tripled. Where do we get the money for this? The refugee camp was the only option for many of us.
  • We learned Omdurman bridge connecting to Khartoum was destroyed right after we left. There is no going back.
  • Milan Parekh was the true hero. He helped everyone who could leave get out.

 

April 30, 2023: Reaching Port Sudan airport, but there is a problem

  • Military buses provided to take everyone 25 KN to Port Sudan airport.
  • The mood is lighter today. We all realize this is a life story we are experiencing.
  • Out of approximately 300 people, only 135 were approved as last minute rule denying Sudanese passports holders, OCI (Overseas Citizens of India), and ambulance patients were denied boarding.
  • Indian military cargo plane landed with seats installed. There was no room to take extra passengers.
  • Plane lands in Jeddah to a royal welcome with fresh food. Three buses took passengers to Jeddah Indian School.
  • Bedding and sheets all new. This is the first shower and change of clothes in days for some.

 

May 1, 2023: India!

  • Indigo Airlines flight #8657 departed for Ahmedabad, India, at 3:57 AM with 210 passengers on board.
  • We left everything we owned in Sudan except what we packed. We must all now start life over.

 

May 4, 2023: Second flight out

  • Military aircraft landed in Port Sudan to pick up those left behind (including Kaushik Mehta) with OCI cards that were denied entry into Jeddah.
  • Direct flight from Port Sudan to Ahmedabad, India, by military cargo plane. This was the first time in history this route had been flown.
  • No room for anyone and all seats were taken with others on the floor.

 

As a former British colony, Sudan had a sizeable Indian population. According to the Indian embassy in Khartoum, which is presently shuttered and evacuated, the settled Indian community in Sudan is about 150 years young. The first Indian Luvchand Amarchand Shah, a Gujarati trader who imported goods from India, is believed to have come to Sudan from Aden in the early 1860s. When his business expanded, he brought his relatives from Saurashtra, who in turn invited their own friends and family. This is how the Indian community grew and developed in Sudan. From the small towns in the eastern part of the country, Port Sudan and Sawakin, the early Indian pioneers moved into the interior of the country and settled down in Omdurman, Kassala, Gedaref and Wad Medani.

As someone with family in Sudan, you know the current situation is not easily solved. As a part of the tourism industry and a regional member of the WTTC, you know that Sudan, like Rwanda, does have a future at some point that involves tourism as a key export.

A visual illustration of the Exit from Sudan. Click below

 

The New Podcast Episode

Dear Advisor Partners,

 

This week we change gears. Yes, again. Many of you know and listen to our podcast, the Sustainable Voice, on Apple, Spotify, and Amazon, to which I say thank you with the utmost gratitude. On several of those episodes, I was joined by one of our many amazing travel advisor partners, Robin Cline of Cline & Co Travel Consulting, where we covered everything from tourism, and powering women’s rights in Egypt to Colombia’s transformation through Medellin. Now, Robin has her very own podcast, The Intrepid Traveler, which I have been a guest on, as have many of our partner colleagues. Our viewpoints on many things travel are aligned, and it seems we laugh harder on each episode as we explore these topics even further.

 

After our most recent recording, where we talked about the origins of our careers and how we ended up in tourism, along with our introduction to sustainability, the conversation turned to current events and the inaccuracy with which this is reported at times.  As Robin is sharing her stories about what is happening in France and me about what is happening in Sudan, I began to wonder why there isn’t a reality show of sorts on our daily lives in this industry. It would certainly be more entertaining than seeing yet another Kardashian drama! All of a sudden, we had an epiphany, why not create a monthly episode on both of our podcasts where we can review the month we both just had and talk about the events that made the news that perhaps wasn’t “front page” material or in some cases, wasn’t even real news at all.

 

May I share the trailer Robin and I recorded for our new monthly podcast episode, Things We Shouldn’t Freak Out About. Our first episode is set to go live at the end of this month, and I cannot wait to see where this topic takes us.

For more information on The Sustainable Voice, click here, or ask Alexa (I always wanted to say that) https://bigfive.com/the-sustainable-voice-podcast-series/

 

Enjoy this week’s video – https://youtu.be/lmAEfWshj98

What happens at the airport ends up on ITR

Dear Advisor Partners,

 

My family got to know James Shillinglaw of Insider Travel Report some years ago. I even remember this great Indian restaurant where he and my father broke bread. Over the years, James and I became friends and tend to see each other everywhere. In fact, and you may laugh, our funniest conversation was actually in April 2020, me sitting in my backyard and James in New York City. James has always been brilliant at making others smile, even where there was nothing to smile about, and this was no different. You see about half way through, the conversation was hitting its stride about what Big Five was doing over the next few months and thoughts on the current situation, when all of a sudden a sound begins to echo through our headphones. I looked to my left and right and saw nothing, Then all of a sudden, with my HD camera on, a lawn mower goes right past me mid-sentence. I immediately lost my train of thought, and James and I started to laugh for no reason. My family must have thought I was nuts as they watched me laugh while staring at my computer. I wasn’t talking to myself, despite what my children thought. Thanks a lot, James!

 

Fast forward to our latest conversation while I waited for my flight home at Toronto Pearson Airport, there I sat in Terminal 1, off to the side where the big windows let in endless sunlight. Nobody was around, not yet, anyway. I popped in my headphones and set up in a location that seemed perfect, with very little background noise and no obnoxious travelers talking loudly even though they were next to each other. I was ready! James and I connected, and the conversation began almost where the last one left off, which is pretty cool considering how many people we have both spoken to in the last few years. We started at the 50th anniversary, then transitioned to my recent visit to Peru, then over to Portal Five. Our last topic was the most exciting, new enhancements to our India product going beyond the Taj Mahal (more on that in a later blog post).

 

Suddenly, I heard faint laughter and loud voices to the left of me. I looked to my left, and of all the places for someone to stop, it was right next to me. Not another lawnmower incident, not again!  Without tipping off James, I moved the camera as best as possible to a quieter location, however, he smiled, knowing full well what was happening again. Leave it to Mr. Shillinglaw, who never skips a beat or a chuckle to keep us on track and end the brilliant conversation on a high note.  I have included the video for your enjoyment, See if you can spot the moment I move. Seriously of all the places….

Enjoy this weeks Video

Dear Advisor Partners,

 

This past February, I traveled back to East Africa to check out the herd movements in the Serengeti and a few new areas in Kenya. While there I had a surprise stop in the Serengeti to visit a perennial photography group that safaris with us on a regular basis. Their travel advisor is based in Southern California, and we have known each other since I first joined Big Five over 20 years ago.

This particular group creates a video from every safari, and each one seems to be better than the last. We have their regular driver guides assigned to the point where it feels like family. In fact, this group helped us accelerate the development at Ereto Primary School with concrete delivery. In addition, every visit to Kenya includes a visit to the antipoaching team at Lewa Conservancy, where this group delivers sorely needed equipment from boots to patrol gear for the entire antipoaching team.

This last safari had a last-minute change with a professional videographer joining the group. The results were spectacular, and I just had to share their video. I warn you; this is a long video, however, turn your volume up and sit back. You’ll be glad you did…

I can’t wait to see what happens during the next group.

A Lesson in Humility

1979. The Big Five office was on the 2nd floor of a building on Kenyatta Avenue, and I had a complete glass door at the entrance to my personal workspace. It was midafternoon, and I was having lunch. A young Kenyan man on crutches and no older than twenty knocked on my door. I got up and opened the door, and asked how I can help as I had never met him before. To this day, I still don’t know his name as I never asked as I was focused instead on how to help.

The young man took out a piece of paper from the back of his pocket and asked if I could give him 10 Kenya Shillings ($1 at that time) because he wanted to pursue his studies. I asked how would 10 Shs. help? It was such a small amount for such a huge task. He answered, “I am asking other people too, so think I will get what I want”. In Kenya, asking for money by random people borders on begging and was sadly common in those days, just as it is in any metropolitan city today. Outside of organized efforts, I normally don’t give money to such people because they usually buy alcohol, drugs, or nicotine. I would be feeding the same vicious cycle. Yet something was different about this person, so I gave him the money he asked for. All these years later, I still don’t know why.

On one particular Friday, maybe around ten months later, I was having lunch in my office as usual. At the nearby Mosque, devoted Muslims prayed as they do every Friday. Normally there are quite a few homeless outside the Mosque asking those entering and leaving for money, so nearby residents almost get desensitized to it. Maybe that’s what happened to me. As is normally the case, we received many beggars knocking on our door as we were very close by. Usually, I bring in food in a bag and distribute that to the needy as they stop by; however, today, I wasn’t able to. A man on crutches knocked on the door, and when I didn’t recognize him, I gestured for the man to go away. He would not budge and kept on knocking. Frustrated, I finally I got up and opened the door. In a loud voice, I told the man, “Don’t you understand that I am telling you to go away! Get out of here!” He immediately interrupted me and said, “I don’t want money or food.” And I snapped at him and asked him bluntly what he wanted. He held both crutches in one hand and took out a paper and said, “I have just come to show you the certificate I got from my studies. You helped me, so I came to thank you.” I was completely stunned and speechless, I had no words and felt like an idiot for my behavior.

I went back into my office, and believe it or not, I cried. This man reminded me how to be humble and not to jump to conclusions. This still brings tears to my eyes, even now, when I was asked by Ashish to write about this and when I tell the story of this incident. I learned on that day and never forgot to never look down on poor or helpless people or anyone for that matter. I will never get to thank this gentleman for bringing me to my senses and reminding me where I came from, and teaching me humility.

I am teaching the same to my Grandkids!

Dear Advisor Partners,

 

I am sharing Part III of our Peru Dispatch. Now and then, something happens that changes the trajectory of your life, reaffirming key decisions made. Whenever that involves changing others’ lives without expecting anything in return, powerful moments are born.

in 2021, the Spirit of Big Five Foundation aligned with professor Walter and Kipi the Robot to change the way education is delivered to the most remote and impoverished communities in Peru. On March 17, 2023, Kipi was demonstrated for a local school in Lima. I joined Walter and Big Five Peru team members to witness this revolutionary robot in action. I was proud when we onboarded this project and knew Kipi represented something positive born out of the pandemic under tough circumstances. Kipi was the path forward schools without any access to the internet or any form of digital communication have been searching for.

The Kipi experience in Lima was documented in the enclosed video, and I couldn’t believe my eyes as I watched the children in that classroom transform. They connected with this robot emotionally, they interacted, and any thought of shyness was removed immediately. This was education 2.0, a synergy with dedicated teachers to take children’s knowledge intake to a whole new level. This was an experience in Peru I won’t soon forget, a proud moment seeing the fruit of our collaboration with Walter. The foundation cannot wait to help Walter complete his new operating system and deploy even more of these robots. Kipi and Walter are real-world examples of innovation overcoming seemingly insurmountable odds, and the Spirit of Big Five is so honored to be on this journey with them.

The previous dispatches focused on the magical experience in Peru, and this one is focused on the impact. Enjoy the video

Dear Advisor Partners,

 

I share with you Part II of our Peru dispatch. I call this one “beyond Machu Picchu” because there is so much more to the country than one site, even if it is one of the New Wonders of the World. Peru’s history goes back to near the beginning of civilization, and our team is hard at work on a deluge of new ideas and concepts that have come up during my visit. As you can imagine, there is a lot of excitement about Peru in our office. However, beyond the history of Peru lies the adventure.

 

With every visit to Peru with my family, we try something new that feeds my adventure bug. And usually, my son is up for anything, while my daughter and wife are a bit more, I guess the word is sensible. Well, this year was no different, except for one twist. My son turned 16 during our adventure, and it was in January when I started counting how many real weeks of uninterrupted time together we have until he graduates high school. And it hit me like a ton of bricks. I only have 10 weeks of uninterrupted time with him. This birthday had to be epic. We didn’t tell him what I had planned until the morning of, and he, I, and our amazing guide, Edwar, jumped off a Sacred Valley cliff at around 13,000 feet, rose up to 14,000 feet before paragliding back down into the circle on a local farm field in the valley, ironically, not far from Sky Lodge, which was our last adventure.

 

The air was a bit strong, which made the flight that much more scenic and the landing that much more exciting. Now, I have been paragliding in many locations before, just never with my son. The last time he saw me jump off a cliff, he was 4 years old, watching me bungee jump in Whistler. I remember promising him then that when he was old enough, we would do something crazy together. Well, it just happened.

 

I said in my last blog that Peru doesn’t need tourism back, it deserves it. The gratitude of everyone I met, including our pilots and old friends not seen since 2021, was real. If anyone thought Peru was taking tourism for granted, you definitely won’t think that now. Don’t take my word for it, though, just look at the smile on my son’s face.

Enjoy this week’s video, and if you want to feel like a  bird, watch the bonus clip my son filmed in flight on a GoPro, if you don’t feel like a bird by then, watch it again.

CLICK HERE for a BONUS Video of More Adventure!

Dear Advisor Partners,

As the tourism industry in Peru is presently recovering, there are three things that jump out at me, which I will share as part I of our III part dispatch.

1. The revenue loss figure has been grossly understated. The Cusco region alone is 97% tourism-dependent, and an economy this fragile takes a huge hit when a major contribution to the GDP is halted. This is the latest illustration of something everyone, from the WTTC to industry leaders, has talked about for years.

2. Everything from Machu Picchu to the trains to airports and overland passes has reopened, and I commend those authors who posted the importance of visiting. The industry is indeed showing signs of a quick recovery, yet there is not enough education locally on how globally connected the Peru economy is, and the true contribution to GDP tourism provides. This was at the center of my need to visit Peru right now and share those conversations with you.

3. While the message is loud and clear that Peru is open for business, the most common question we are asked is about safety. The only way to illustrate the importance of tourism and the stabilization of the industry is leading by example and traveling to Peru with my family.

I write this while sitting with my wife and children in Machu Picchu to explore Peru and form new bonds with the locals. From day one, the gratitude felt by the locals to see us has shown through. I would even say their joy with the rebound in tourism is more powerful now than when the country reopened after the pandemic. It is that powerful.

We recorded a video today while at Machu Picchu because the story of any visit to Peru starts here. I used to think Peru needed tourism back, but I was wrong. Peru deserves tourism back.

Click Here to Enjoy Part I of our dispatch.

Dear Advisor Partners,

 

Every adventure I partake in leads to some entertaining dispatches, and each episode has a wow moment that makes your jaw drop. Part One of this particular dispatch had us up close to baby wildebeest in the Serengeti and a special moment when Big Five celebrated our 50th anniversary. I recorded a video while on safari, right where it all began in East Africa. Part Two was a special moment, as the WOW moment here was not what I expected. Of course, the visit to Lentorre was to take center stage. However, that was not the only highlight. We now share Part III of our East Africa Dispatch, the final chapter of this adventure.  Leaving the Rift Valley, we headed north to Loisaba Conservancy, a place I often visit.

 

Two of the guides here are close friends; one I met later in Nairobi, while he was on holiday, and the other, Lenny, whom I reconnected with after so long. Brown, as he is affectionately called, is a legend in Loisaba, and the two of us were thick as thieves. As you watch this week’s video, pay attention to the end, Lenny may have just inadvertently starred in the latest Land Rover commercial because, well, they still use the venerable Defenders up here, my favorite Go Anywhere 4×4. This was where the safari slowed down, where the benefit of conservancy life took over. There were no crowds of safari vehicles, as you see in the well-known reserves. There were no Nairobi safari do-it-your-selfers,  here it was just us, the animals, and the most beautiful sunsets and sunrises anyone could ask for. The highlight here, however, was not just that. It was something that was the first for any safari company in the north – a day trip by air to the only organized community elephant rescue sanctuary in Kenya. You can access Reteti from camps like Sarara, which is great, however, Big Five guests staying anywhere in or around the Northern Rangelands Trust can get here by air as a day trip. Now I have been to Reteti many times, and know how powerful it is, so the amazing advisors on the safari went along with our ops manager James from the Nairobi office. When a Nairobi resident who has been all over Kenya comes back with his jaw on the floor, you know you have something golden.

 

This brings us to the Land Rover commercial, which is quite comical in one of those ‘you had to be there moments.’ All over East Africa, land cruisers have replaced the original Defenders due to new rules and available parts. Now mind you, we are not talking about the Defenders you see on the road in North America,  I have my own opinion on those. No, we are talking about the old metal boxes that were strong enough to withstand a cannon. I had the pleasure of even testing one through deep water and got to see the snorkel and drain plug work as planned. So all through our safaris, the phrase, “this is Land Rover, hang on,” began surfacing, and as you will see, even in hushed tones, next to sleeping lions. The perfect commercial, I am sure you will agree.


CLICK HERE  to enjoy this week’s video and part III of our East Africa Dispatch.

For those wondering, I can neither confirm nor deny that I drove the Defender, only that, I do know how to drive a manual transmission, no matter how stiff the clutch may be.

Dear Advisor Partners,

 

Taking a break from the dispatches & videos you enjoyed so much sharing to talks of Peru last week.

 

There has been so much activity with everything and everywhere being open; for instance, Machu Picchu to Iquitos is now open and running like normal. From the very start of the disruptions in Peru, we wanted to share real, true updates with you from the ground, from drivers between Cusco and the Sacred Valley to guides walking around Lima and Aguas Calientes.

We even had a video from inside Machu Picchu prepared and ready to share! So, when the site reopened, we could show everyone actual real footage instead of trying to convince you to think a certain way. We stood by Peru as its tourism came to a grinding halt, taking steps to help guests remain flexible. Now we must help Peru rebuild. That means showcasing all the open sights and, most importantly, the people, from guides to drivers to hotel and river cruise staff, eagerly awaiting your return.

It’s no secret that Peru was one of the most sought-after destinations post-pandemic; we can see now, from the projectory of future bookings, we expect Peru to once again be a hot destination, with spaces becoming an issue later this year into the next. This is not the first nor last time political stability impacts a country. However, it is never an infinite problem. There is a beginning, and most importantly, there is an end. The situations may take longer to resolve; nevertheless, the economics that powers a country like Peru take precedence.

We want to help everyone in Peru get back on their feet, so we have restored our deposit policy back to normal for new bookings in order to allow those prepaid deposits go to help all the providers in Peru get back on their feet and to survive these troubled times and be there for you and your clients return.  As I’ve mentioned in a previous post, the Spirit of Big Five Foundation has two social projects in Peru that remain active and continue to be supported.

How do I also know Peru is ready, you ask?

Well, the fact that our favorite 80’s hair bands, from Mötley Crüe to Def Leppard and others, just performed to a packed audience in Lima 24 hours ago is how.  One of our guides Cris Vera who some of you know, went to that concert (where he eventually lost his voice). Now I know this music is not everyone’s cup of tea, so I only ask, if that entourage is in Peru, where is yours?


CLICK HERE to Enjoy this video showcasing the happenings from Peru last week (minus the rock concert)

 

Dear Advisor Partners,

February 14, 2023, is a day I won’t soon forget, and it really has nothing to do with Cupid (don’t tell my wife I said that). It was 8:00 AM in Nairobi, and I was getting ready to head to the lobby at my favorite hotel, Hemingway’s, when my colleague, Irene, from our Kenya team,  called me and said, “come quick, someone is here to see you.” I ran, thinking it was an emergency meeting or maybe someone important. When I arrived in the lobby, I looked around and heard a soft voice that I remembered very fondly saying, “Ashish!” I quickly turned around and said, “Sammy”? You see, Sammy is a tour guide for a different company and was at the hotel to meet his guests when Irene saw and told him I was in Nairobi. What were the odds?  With five million residents in Kenya and at this exact moment we were in the same place. Lighting in a bottle doesn’t even begin to describe the moment.

 

Sammy and I were kids together in Kenya., Sammy, my senior by a few years. His family has been intertwined with mine since my father was 3 years old, so we are talking about a 70 plus year relationship. Well, Sammy cut his teeth in tourism working after school at the Kenya Big Five office and made a career for himself. Well, I hadn’t seen Sammy since I was 12, and if I recall, I am 45 now. His face had not changed, I knew who it was immediately. I don’t think I have ever hugged another person as tight as I hugged Sammy because we both knew right away that it was a miracle that we even found each other again. So, there we were in Hemmingway’s lobby, tears, his clients waiting and wondering who I was, and my party wondering who Sammy was. Now I am a firm believer in things happening for a reason, and I don’t know how our paths aligned, but the last thing I said to Sammy before leaving Nairobi was – please, let’s not wait 30 years to talk again.

 

If that isn’t crazy enough, my day still wasn’t done. Fast forward 3 hours after flying to the Rift Valley to a private Maasai conservancy in the southern part of the country. Our chartered Cessna 206 lands on a dirt airstrip deep in the valley. A long Land Cruiser awaits us with a Maasai guide named Amos. I swear I had seen Amos before because that Déjà vu feeling was in full force. My “Spidey sense” was off the charts. As we drove towards our hidden retreat, Lentorre Lodge, I asked Amos if we had met before. By this point, the travel advisors on safari with me are asking, is there anyone you don’t know? Amos starts recounting his safari journey from Basecamp Explorer back in 2010 and I say, “Amos, were you at Koiyaki Guide School in the Mara?” He nods his head, possibly wondering where this conversation is going. Do you remember two Canadian volunteers teaching music there? Amos nods and turns around, now realizing where the conversation is going. Do you remember Big John, a 15 year old Maasai who towered over everyone including my 6 ft. 3 in. frame?  He nods again, now fully engaged. Do you remember a swarm of African bees in the back of the school and this one visitor who walked through that swam unaware of his surroundings? Now laughing, Amos says “was that you”? Well… and I still don’t have any sense of my surroundings all these years and that was the day I was stung by the famous African Killer Bees multiple times on my left arm. Amos now with a good laugh going, remembered who I was and me him. He said you were squeezing your stings which is completely wrong!  I agreed and reminded him that I got more worried about the stings when he started hitting the wounds and looking for a sharp object to skin my arm to get the stingers, I had foolishly pushed further back in and out.

 

If you ever asked yourself what would happen if you were injured in a remote area far from hospitals and cities, well, I answered that question for myself that day. I looked at Amos, and as I said to Sammy that morning, February 14, 2023,  is a day I will never forget. A one-chance meeting is incredible. However, two in a span of a few hours on the same day just seems like divine intervention.

CLICK HERE and Enjoy Part II of our East Africa Dispatch video

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